Rick Bacon, Head Butcher

"After a few childhood Christmases that weren’t exactly memorable for the food, my first real Christmas feast came later in life. While living abroad, I found myself at a huge “orphans’ Christmas”, with 30 Aussies and Kiwis packed into a London share-house. I spent the night and morning cooking: a huge turkey in the oven, a couple of chickens on the BBQ, and a beautiful leg of lamb. For me, lamb sings of the Australian summer and I wanted to give everyone a taste of home. Everyone had a massive lunch, and the celebrations rolled on well into the evening.

This version of the lamb leg is a bit more sophisticated than the share-house original. A boneless leg is stuffed with confit garlic, oregano, thyme, parsley and Dijon mustard, then rolled and wrapped in caul fat. The caul holds it neatly together and adds an extra layer of succulence.

It only needs an hour in the oven and a short rest before carving into blushing pink slices. I like to serve it with a whole roasted cauliflower cheese, as indulgent as Christmas Day should be."