Rick Bacon, Head Butcher

"My childhood Christmases were memorable and I couldn’t wait until it was my turn to prepare the lunch . A Christmas that sticks out was one while living abroad. I joined a big “orphans’ Christmas” away from home with 30 Aussies and Kiwis crammed into a London share-house. Lamb reminds me of the Australian summer, so I made it for everyone—a taste of home. The lunch was huge and the party lasted well into the night.

This version of the lamb leg is a bit more sophisticated than the share-house original. A boneless leg is stuffed with confit garlic, oregano, thyme, parsley and Dijon mustard, then rolled and wrapped in caul fat. The caul holds it neatly together and adds an extra layer of succulence.

It only needs an hour in the oven and a short rest before carving into blushing pink slices. I like to serve it with a whole roasted cauliflower cheese, as indulgent as Christmas Day should be."